Summer Sipping:
Dan Hertz suggests a host of wines for the patio and barbecue
Grape Expectations, July 2010
Download This Article
SUMMER SIPPING, a time to relax on the patio, fire up the grill and kick back with some easy drinking reds, thirst-quenching whites, and a host of fruit-based cocktails and aperitifs.
Condiments such as ketchup, barbecue sauce, mustard and relish are often high in acid, salt and sugar, so it's best to avoid the fuller-bodied, austere reds like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, young Bordeaux and Barolo. Instead, drink fruity, quaffable wines that are low in alcohol and tannin (tannin causes the sand papery astringency you feel on the sides of your mouth and tongue).
This is because salt can react with tannin to make a wine taste bitter; sugar in food can make a wine seem hollow (i.e. lacking fruit); and high alcohol can accentuate a food's peppery spice, leaving an "Oh my God! Four alarm fire!" on your palate.
Similarly for whites, it's best to put aside the rich, oaky Chardonnays and try something lighter and fresher: Muscadets from the Loire Valley, Vinho Verdes from Portugal, lemony Semillons from Australia, Italian whites from grapes we've never heard of, and my personal favourite: Rieslings — the perfect thirst quencher balancing sweetness, tanginess and acidity.
Find the wines too tart?
Try pairing them with equally acidic food: squirt some lemon on your fish, or serve lime and mint salsa with your pork or chicken.
When we eat acidic foods, the wine's apparent acidity diminishes. In other words, the wine will appear to be rounder and less acidic than it actually is.
Lastly, consider rosés this summer: they look great, and their vivacious, bright berry flavours pair well with savoury side dishes and salads. Try salmon with a cherry glaze, tomato/cucumber gazpacho, microgreens with strawberry vinaigrette, or grilled chicken with tarragon or rosemary. A colleague even swears by pickled onions. (She's British, so that might explain it)
How's a rosé made?
Rosés are generally made by crushing red grapes, and allowing the skins to soak briefly in the extracted juice (known as skin contact).
Imagine taking a tea bag: a little soak yields very little colour (like a rosé wine); a long soak yields a lot (like a red).
As a rough guide, rosés from the South of France are the driest, followed by Spain, Italy and South America.
New Zealand, Australian, American and Canadian rosés can be quite varied: I've found the Kiwi rosés to be a little more aromatic than the Aussies', whilst New York and Ontario offerings tend to be a little crisper and restrained than the happy-go-lucky BC, Washington, and California versions. A generalization, so please keep that in mind.
Wines labelled "Blush" or "White Zinfandel" are almost always off-dry.
Have fun, and happy drinking!
Minini "Villa Pozzi" Nero d'Avola 2008, Sicily/Italy ($10.99, 13.5%)
An easy-drinking and generous Nero d'Avola, quite fleshy and open-textured, with plummy/dark fruit flavour, and a slight snappy finish. Enjoyable on its own, or with stews and burgers. (DH)
Nostrada Tempranillo Old Vines 2009, Tarragona/Spain ($6.99, 13%)
Cherry/berry aromas and a touch of sweetness on the palate, ending with smoke notes and a slightly bitter tang. An honest, simple red. Food match: steaks, roast beef, pizza and pasta. Excellent value. (DH)
Château de Targé Saumur-Champigny 2007, Loire/France ($15.99, 13.5%)
A text-book Cabernet Franc: medium red colour with raspberry, blueberry, green bean and celery notes. Light-bodied, refreshing and low in tannin. No oak. Food match: Grilled meats, sausage. (DH)
Masi "Serego Alighieri Poderi del Bello Ovile" IGT 2005, Tuscany/Italy ($16.99, 13.5%)
Sangiovese dominates this delicious, quaffable all-rounder from Masi's Tuscan estate. Low tannins, with juicy, plummy flavours. A personal favourite, the wine has enough stuffing to go with many tomato and meat-based dishes, perhaps even lamb tajine with prunes. (DH)
Mud House Pinot Noir 2008, Marlborough/New Zealand ($15.99, 13.5%)
Typically made in a fresh and fruity style, the 2008 is no exception, with bright raspberry and cherry aromas, and a hint of herbaceousness on the palate. Can be chilled a few degrees and served as an aperitif, or with lighter grilled fare. Mud House also makes a lightly oak-aged Pinot Noir from Central Otago. Food match: bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin. (DH)
Charles & Charles Rosé 2009, Washington/USA ($9.99, 13%)
A juicy, flavourful, crowd-friendly rosé from Wahluke Slope Syrah. Dark salmon coloured, the berry and cranberry aromas leap out of the glass, The wine has just enough sweetness to go with fruit-glazed salmon, duck, or spicier Asian fare. A great summer quaff. (DH)
Mastroberardino Lacrimarosa Rosato IGT 2009, Campania/Italy ($16.99, 13%)
God awful packaging (80's blush anyone?), but a nice dry rosé from one of Campania's most noted wineries. Made from 100% Aglianico, the rosé is aromatic, lively and fresh, with notes of strawberry, pepper and herbs. Food match: grilled veggies, salads, and salumi. (DH)
Canella Rosé Spumante Brut NV, Veneto/Italy ($15.99, 11%)
Lightly floral with strawberry, tropical, and sweet citrus notes, ending with a slight lime peel finish. Made from Pinot Nero (i.e. Pinot Noir), this is a fun, radiant wine that's pretty to look at, and a treat to drink. A standout wedding wine. (DH)
Moët & Chandon "Impérial" Champagne NV, Champagne/France ($34.99, 12%)
Hitting its stride of late with a fresh, crisp lemony style. Tried three times recently, remarking how pleasurable and palate cleansing it was each time. Drink: now-2012. Food match: sushi, smoked salmon, or scallops with lemon rind shavings. (DH)
Bougrier "Château du Jaunay" Muscadet Sévre & Maine sur lie AOC 2008, Loire/France ($10.99, 12%)
A lovely summer wine, the Château de Jaunay has the grapefruit and stone character you expect in Muscadet, but with rounded corners: It's tangy and vibrant but not hard and acidic. Try as an aperitif, or with fish, shellfish or endive/roquette salad. (DH)
"Hughes Beaulieu" (or "Beauvignac") Picpoul de Pinet 2009, Languedoc/France ($9.99, 12.5%)
From the South of France, the Picpoul (Folle Blanche grape) is a fresh, lively wine with a flinty crispness and lime/grapefruit peel notes. A good light-bodied thirst quencher. (DH)
Sogrape "Gazela" Vinho Verde 2009, Minho/Portugal ($6.99, 9%)
Made from a blend of white grapes, Vinho Verde (or "green wine") takes its name from the lush green countryside of the Minho Region in NW Portugal (it also refers to drinking the wines fresh or young). The Gazela is made in a friskier style, with citrus peel and green apple notes, and a slight effervescence on the palate. Low alcohol. (DH)
Cusumano Insolia IGT 2009, Sicily/Italy ($14.99, 12.5%)
Straw-coloured, with sweet lemon, canned pear and guava aromas. The palate is surprisingly dry, with white pepper, tropical and spice notes, ending with grapefruit essence. A positive, up-beat and contemporary example of the Inzolia grape. Food match: grilled shark, swordfish with citrus salsa, or Shrimp Fra Diavolo. (DH)
Brokenwood Semillon 2007, Hunter Valley (NSW)/Australia ($15.99, 12%)
A tasty, succulent Semillon: almost colourless with a sparkley sheen; apple, honey and lemon aromas with just a hint of petrol; and a very positive, tangy and refreshing flavour. I would expect the petrol character to intensify with bottle age. Drink: now-2018. Food match: sushi, scallops, lemon chicken. (DH)
St. Hallett "Poacher's Blend" White 2008, Barossa (SA)/Australia ($11.99, 11.5%)
One of my favourite go to whites, the 2008 is a bit more open than previous vintages, with pineapple, honey and lemon notes. Has a slight spritzig edge, finishing clean and crisp. An excellent party or reception wine. Made from Semillon, S. Blanc, and Riesling. (DH)
Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling 2009, Washington/USA ($6.99, 12%)
A charming, delicate Riesling, with a slight pétillante texture and white pepper, peach, and honeydew flavour. One glass wasn't enough: the bottle emptied quickly. Look for the 2009 vintage (brown bottle): while not as fruity as the 2008, it's a classier wine offering greater complexity. Drink as an aperitif. Off dry. (DH)
Chateau Ste. Michelle/Dr. Loosen "Eroica" Riesling 2008, Washington/USA ($19.99, 11.5%)
A joint partnership between CSM and Germany's Dr. Loosen, the Eroica is a benchmark American Riesling: green tinged, with peppered pear and lime/grapefruit aromas, the mineral structure deftly frames the expressive Washington fruit. Wonderful craftsmanship, and on par with another great American producer: Hermann Weimer of the Finger Lakes. Drink: now-2020. GV. (DH)
Chiarlo "Nivole" Moscato d'Asti DOCG 2008, Piedmont/Italy ($12/375mL, 5%)
A little pricey, but a deliciously satisfying aperitif/dessert wine from a steady Piemontese producer. Chiarlo's version is a flirtacious peachy affair, very light in alcohol, but long on flavour: I was still tasting it 10 minutes later. Try chilled with a peach flan, ginger cookies, or ginger cake. (DH)
Mionetto "Il" Moscato NV, Veneto/Italy ($10.99, 7%)
A fun little product from one of Veneto's largest Prosecco producers. Great package: Mionetto's crafted an ultra hip retro-looking bowling pin/bottle cap combo, and filled it with an slightly effervescent semi-sweet liquid that bursts with tropical and honeydew flavour. (DH)
Lillet Blanc Aperitif, Bordeaux/France ($15.99, 17%)
A under appreciated aperitif, Lillet Blanc is made in the Bordeaux area of France from an infusion of fruits, herbs and spices. Honey, citrus and raisin notes ending with a slight bitter finish. Drink it over ice with a slice of orange (some folks like a lime or lemon wedge). Also delicious topped up with seltzer — or tonic water (for a slightly snappier version). (DH)
Chinaco Tequila Blanco, Tamaulipas/Mexico ($42.99, 40%)
A top shelf tequila made in the Tamaulipas area of Mexico. Notes of sage and grass, with a slight oily and sweet apple/honey overtone. Quite complex for a blanco, with strong peppered agave flavour. An excellent choice for a premium Margarita, or mixed with Grapefruit juice (drizzle Campari over top for a beautiful sunset glow). Also good in a Tequila/Campari/Grapefruit sorbet. (DH)
